Wade Truong picks up decoy geese from a hunting area. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     
 Wade Truong waiting for a flock of Canada geese in a blind made from cedar branches built along the edge of a cornfield. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     
 Flocks of geese that hunters believe are from the Ungava Peninsula in Quebec winter over in the grain fields near George Washington’s Birthplace in Virginia. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     
 The bird dog Tug and his owner, Lawrence Latané, head home with two Canada geese after a cold morning of hunting near the shores of the Potomac River. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     
 Mr. Truong hangs the waterfowl he hunts in a shed behind the house he shares with girlfriend Rachel Wade. A few days of aging improves the taste and texture of the meat. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     
 Mr. Truong has been developing a recipe for Peking goose, which requires separating the skin with an air compressor and three days of drying in the refrigerator before it's roasted and basted in its own fat. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     
 Mr. Truong's game charcuterie platter included, from left to right, venison summer sausage, beaver tail lardo, venison pastrami, venison andouille and venison and pork country sausage. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     
 Mr. Truong and Ms. Owen aim to eat only meat and fish they kill themselves. At a recent post-hunt lunch, they piled slices of Peking goose on flour tortillas smeared with hoisin sauce. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     
 Wade Truong picks up decoy geese from a hunting area. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     

Wade Truong picks up decoy geese from a hunting area. (Photo for The New York Times)

 Wade Truong waiting for a flock of Canada geese in a blind made from cedar branches built along the edge of a cornfield. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     

Wade Truong waiting for a flock of Canada geese in a blind made from cedar branches built along the edge of a cornfield. (Photo for The New York Times)

 Flocks of geese that hunters believe are from the Ungava Peninsula in Quebec winter over in the grain fields near George Washington’s Birthplace in Virginia. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     

Flocks of geese that hunters believe are from the Ungava Peninsula in Quebec winter over in the grain fields near George Washington’s Birthplace in Virginia. (Photo for The New York Times)

 The bird dog Tug and his owner, Lawrence Latané, head home with two Canada geese after a cold morning of hunting near the shores of the Potomac River. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     

The bird dog Tug and his owner, Lawrence Latané, head home with two Canada geese after a cold morning of hunting near the shores of the Potomac River. (Photo for The New York Times)

 Mr. Truong hangs the waterfowl he hunts in a shed behind the house he shares with girlfriend Rachel Wade. A few days of aging improves the taste and texture of the meat. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     

Mr. Truong hangs the waterfowl he hunts in a shed behind the house he shares with girlfriend Rachel Wade. A few days of aging improves the taste and texture of the meat. (Photo for The New York Times)

 Mr. Truong has been developing a recipe for Peking goose, which requires separating the skin with an air compressor and three days of drying in the refrigerator before it's roasted and basted in its own fat. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     

Mr. Truong has been developing a recipe for Peking goose, which requires separating the skin with an air compressor and three days of drying in the refrigerator before it's roasted and basted in its own fat. (Photo for The New York Times)

 Mr. Truong's game charcuterie platter included, from left to right, venison summer sausage, beaver tail lardo, venison pastrami, venison andouille and venison and pork country sausage. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     

Mr. Truong's game charcuterie platter included, from left to right, venison summer sausage, beaver tail lardo, venison pastrami, venison andouille and venison and pork country sausage. (Photo for The New York Times)

 Mr. Truong and Ms. Owen aim to eat only meat and fish they kill themselves. At a recent post-hunt lunch, they piled slices of Peking goose on flour tortillas smeared with hoisin sauce. (Photo for  The New York Times )
       
     

Mr. Truong and Ms. Owen aim to eat only meat and fish they kill themselves. At a recent post-hunt lunch, they piled slices of Peking goose on flour tortillas smeared with hoisin sauce. (Photo for The New York Times)